Outdoor Adventures with Ancient Brit
Canoe Guide - Dordogne
Canoe Tours in France: Dordogne
The Dordogne flows down from the Massif Central to join the Garonne beyond Bordeaux before flowing into
the Atlantic Ocean. The Dordogne is canoe able in places near its source but this is really the realm of the white-
water kayak rather than the touring canoe.
The route I’m going to describe flows about 160 km from Argentat to Le Buisson. The river is free-flowing
throughout this route This is, justifiably, a very popular route for canoeists and there are many canoe-hire
companies operate on this section of river.
Start: At Argentat take the D12 towards Beaulieu. You will soon reach a layby where you can park and where
you can launch canoe into the river. Argentat is about 25 km SE of Tulle.
Finish: There is a carpark and campsite beside the river at Le Buisson where you can take your canoe out of
the water. Le Buisson is on the south bank of the Dordogne about 40 km east of Bergerac.
Transport: At the end of your trip it is possible to get from Le Buisson to Argentat using public transport.
Take the train from Le Buisson to Niversac. From here you can get a train to Brive. There is a bus from Brive to
Argentat. The trains and buses aren’t very frequent so it is a good idea to get timetables (from the tourist
office?) before you start. It may be more convenient to leave your canoe at Argentat, drive to Le Buisson, leave
your car there and get the train/bus back to Argentat.
There are many canoe hire companies operating on this section of the Dordogne and they should be able to
provide transport for you and your canoe at a price.
Accommodation: There are many tourist towns and commercial campsites along the banks of the river. It is
also possible to find sites for wilderness camping.
Portages: There are no portages on this route. The dams in the upper portion can be bypassed using canoe-
shoots and the weirs can be shot at normal water levels.
Time: I have taken between 5 and 8 days for this tour
Difficulties: There are a series of grade 2 rapids in the higher sections of the river. The river is fast moving in
places further down and the normally safe river could be dangerous if the river is in flood.
The river is dam controlled and the water level can go up and down over a short period. You should make
sure you are camping high enough above the river, and that your canoe can’t float away overnight!
The difficulty of a weir is very dependent on water level. Remember that weirs are often easier to shoot in
high water than low water, so you should always examine weirs before attempting to shoot them.
Distance: 160 km
Route extensions: It is possible to extend the tour another 110 km down to Libourne, but this will involve
portages round a few dams.
The Route:
a) Argentat - Beaulieu 24 km
The major rapid is about a mile downstream from Argentat. The river splits into two. The right hand channel
has confused water as the water flows round a sharp bend. The left hand channel has fast moving water with an
initial drop with a big wave train below the drop. I have canoed the left channel at a variety of water levels and
have always shipped water but found the rapid relatively easy. Minor rapids continue to Beaulieu. Approaching
Beaulieu there is a small weir which it is possible to shoot, but you may ship some water.
This is followed by a more serious weir. After examining the weir you can decide whether to shoot it or
portage it.
There is a dam at Beaulieu, but you can bypass it down a side channel on the left which has a canoe-chute. It
would be a good idea to examine this before using it as it was getting eroded at the bottom last time I canoed the
route.
Once you are past Beaulieu you have shot the most difficult rapids, but there are over a hundred more rapids
en route. Care is still needed on the easier rapids as it is on the easier rapids that concentration can lapse and
this can lead to a capsize.
b) Beaulieu - Carennac 21 km
There is a weir just after La Cere which should be examined before shooting.
The last major obstacle on the river is a large concrete weir on the approach to Carennac. They have built a
canoe-chute into the weir, but was getting eroded at the bottom so you should examine this before using it.
c) Carennac - Le Buisson 115 km
After Carennac you will reach the terrain for which the Dordogne is famous. The river passes through a
succession of limestone gorges. There are many tourist towns nestling under the cliffs and a succession of
chateau. You will find a lot of canoeists on the river. The rapids should not give any problem to an experienced
canoeist, but they are not insignificant and care should be taken.
I would not want to attempt this route if the river was in flood.
Information:
Maps: Michelin map 75 covers the area of this route at 1:200,000 scale. There is no need for a more detailed map.
Safaraid, Dordogne
46110 VAYRAC
Tél. 33 (0)5 65 37 44 87
contact@canoe-kayak-dordogne.com
http://www.canoe-kayak-dordogne.com
Canoe hire, canoe transport and information
There is a sketch map of the route on their website
The Dordogne flows down from the Massif Central to join the Garonne beyond Bordeaux before flowing into
the Atlantic Ocean. The Dordogne is canoe able in places near its source but this is really the realm of the white-
water kayak rather than the touring canoe.
The route I’m going to describe flows about 160 km from Argentat to Le Buisson. The river is free-flowing
throughout this route This is, justifiably, a very popular route for canoeists and there are many canoe-hire
companies operate on this section of river.
Start: At Argentat take the D12 towards Beaulieu. You will soon reach a layby where you can park and where
you can launch canoe into the river. Argentat is about 25 km SE of Tulle.
Finish: There is a carpark and campsite beside the river at Le Buisson where you can take your canoe out of
the water. Le Buisson is on the south bank of the Dordogne about 40 km east of Bergerac.
Transport: At the end of your trip it is possible to get from Le Buisson to Argentat using public transport.
Take the train from Le Buisson to Niversac. From here you can get a train to Brive. There is a bus from Brive to
Argentat. The trains and buses aren’t very frequent so it is a good idea to get timetables (from the tourist
office?) before you start. It may be more convenient to leave your canoe at Argentat, drive to Le Buisson, leave
your car there and get the train/bus back to Argentat.
There are many canoe hire companies operating on this section of the Dordogne and they should be able to
provide transport for you and your canoe at a price.
Accommodation: There are many tourist towns and commercial campsites along the banks of the river. It is
also possible to find sites for wilderness camping.
Portages: There are no portages on this route. The dams in the upper portion can be bypassed using canoe-
shoots and the weirs can be shot at normal water levels.
Time: I have taken between 5 and 8 days for this tour
Difficulties: There are a series of grade 2 rapids in the higher sections of the river. The river is fast moving in
places further down and the normally safe river could be dangerous if the river is in flood.
The river is dam controlled and the water level can go up and down over a short period. You should make
sure you are camping high enough above the river, and that your canoe can’t float away overnight!
The difficulty of a weir is very dependent on water level. Remember that weirs are often easier to shoot in
high water than low water, so you should always examine weirs before attempting to shoot them.
Distance: 160 km
Route extensions: It is possible to extend the tour another 110 km down to Libourne, but this will involve
portages round a few dams.
The Route:
a) Argentat - Beaulieu 24 km
The major rapid is about a mile downstream from Argentat. The river splits into two. The right hand channel
has confused water as the water flows round a sharp bend. The left hand channel has fast moving water with an
initial drop with a big wave train below the drop. I have canoed the left channel at a variety of water levels and
have always shipped water but found the rapid relatively easy. Minor rapids continue to Beaulieu. Approaching
Beaulieu there is a small weir which it is possible to shoot, but you may ship some water.
This is followed by a more serious weir. After examining the weir you can decide whether to shoot it or
portage it.
There is a dam at Beaulieu, but you can bypass it down a side channel on the left which has a canoe-chute. It
would be a good idea to examine this before using it as it was getting eroded at the bottom last time I canoed the
route.
Once you are past Beaulieu you have shot the most difficult rapids, but there are over a hundred more rapids
en route. Care is still needed on the easier rapids as it is on the easier rapids that concentration can lapse and
this can lead to a capsize.
b) Beaulieu - Carennac 21 km
There is a weir just after La Cere which should be examined before shooting.
The last major obstacle on the river is a large concrete weir on the approach to Carennac. They have built a
canoe-chute into the weir, but was getting eroded at the bottom so you should examine this before using it.
c) Carennac - Le Buisson 115 km
After Carennac you will reach the terrain for which the Dordogne is famous. The river passes through a
succession of limestone gorges. There are many tourist towns nestling under the cliffs and a succession of
chateau. You will find a lot of canoeists on the river. The rapids should not give any problem to an experienced
canoeist, but they are not insignificant and care should be taken.
I would not want to attempt this route if the river was in flood.
Information:
Maps: Michelin map 75 covers the area of this route at 1:200,000 scale. There is no need for a more detailed map.
Safaraid, Dordogne
46110 VAYRAC
Tél. 33 (0)5 65 37 44 87
contact@canoe-kayak-dordogne.com
http://www.canoe-kayak-dordogne.com
Canoe hire, canoe transport and information
There is a sketch map of the route on their website
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