Outdoor Adventures with Ancient Brit
Canoe Guide - Tagus
Canoe Tours in Portugal: Tagus (Rio Tejo)
The Tagus flows from central Spain into Portugal and eventually reaches the Atlantic Ocean at Lisbon. This tour
covers about 160 km in Portugal. Most of the route is through remote countryside. There are only two dams early on
the route then the river is free flowing and becomes tidal as you near Vila Franca.
Start: Vila Velha de Rodao: From Castelo Branco follow the E802 SW for 15 km, then follow the N18 S to Vila
Velha de Rodao. There is a car park beside the river with a jetty, from which canoes can be launched, which is used
by fishing boats and the local rowing club.
Finish: Vila Franca de Xira: Vila Franca de Xira is about is about 30 km upstream from Lisbon. Below Vila
Franca the Tegus forms a big tidal estuary and there is much industry along the northern bank of the river as well
as much shipping so it is sensible to end the tour here. There are jetties and slipways where the canoe can be taken
out of the water.
Transport: There is a railway running from Vila Franca to Vila Rodao. There are several trains each day. For
those without two vehicles there are two options for canoe recovery.
1) Leave your vehicle at Vila Velha. When you reach Vila Franca there is a boatyard which may look after your
canoe while you return by train to pick up your car.
2) Leave your canoes at Vila Velha drive to Vila Franca. You should be able to find somewhere to leave your car
east of the station. Return to Vila Velha by train to begin your journey
Time required: The distance is about 160 km. How long it takes will depend on the wind, the amount of water
flowing down the river and the timing of the discharges from the Fratel and Belver Dams. I have canoed this river
several times and taken between 7 and 12 days to complete the route.
Accomodation: There are plenty of places for wilderness camping along the route once you are below the Fratel
Dam. You pass a number of towns where you will be able to find an hotel or be able to resupply.
Portages: There are two portages round dams. A trolley would make these portages easier.
Difficulty: At the Fratel and Belver Dams there are major hydro-electric Power Stations. They seem to operate
for periods of several hours and then the water flow is turned off. When the flow is turned on the water can rise by
at least 3 metres below the dams and there will be rapids which are only for the very experienced whitewater canoist.
You should wait until there is little flow from the dams before launching canoes into the water below the dam.
Sometimes the Power Stations operate at night!! The water level can raise up to 3 metres so you must not camp on
sandbanks or islands in the river. Make sure you are well above any high-water level when the flood water flows
from the dams. As you get further from the dams the flow levels out and the fluctuations in water level decrease. As
Vila Franca is approached the river becomes tidal. You are paddling into the prevailing wind and the wind. If there is
a strong wind, paddling can be difficult and slow and you can get big waves building up in some sections. In these
conditions it can make to sense to paddle early in the morning as the wind often builds up in the afternoon.
The Route:
a) Vila Velha de Rodao - Baragem de Fratel 16km
This section is a linear reservoir. There is little problem unless you are heading into a strong headwind. You are
far enough below the Cedilo Dam that the water is unlikely to vary by more than about 1m in a short interval. The
banks are steep and there are very few camping possibilities on this section. The best possibility is on the south
bank after about 7 km.
b) Portage of the Baragem de Fratel
Land the canoe at the slipway on the left before the dam. You then need to portage up a steep ramp to the dam
and cross the dam to a parking area on the north side of the dam. From here a small path leads down to the river.
The lower section of this path has deteriorated badly and you will have to carry the canoe rather than use your
trolley.
The first few hundred metres below the dam will be dangerous if there is substantial water being discharged from
the dam. When I have canoed this section I have waited for the water levels to drop before launching my canoe.
c) Baragem de Fratel - Baragem de Belver 20km
This is an easy section unless you launched when water was flowing from the dam. Assuming you camp
somewhere en route, make sure you are high enough above the river to cope with any discharge from the dam. That
means at least 3m above the river level
d) Portage of Baragem de Belver
When you reach the dam you should paddle under a bridge to the right of the dam and land at the slipway at a
small beach resort. The portage can be done by trolley. Head up the road past a commercial campsite and then turn
left and then right down a track between old shacks down to the river.
e) Baragem de Belver - Abrantes 18km
It may appear that you can launch into the river when it is high and fast-flowing, but don‘t. Just around the
corner the rapids start and they are dangerous when the river is in flood. Wait until water is no longer being
discharged from the dam. You could paddle a few hundred yards and camp on the left above the start of the rapids.
There a number of rapids between Belver and Abrantes. When the water level is low there are no problems. Just
after the nuclear power station visible high above the left bank you will come across a weir. This should be inspected
before you make any attempt to shoot it. Depending on the water levels, I have portaged it, shot it on the left or on
the right. Portaging is the sensible option, but if you are going to shoot the weir I would think it will probably be
easier on the right.
f) Abrantes - Santarem 60 km
There are no serious rapids below Abrantes. The river flows freely and you should be able to paddle at any water
levels. When the flow is low you will find places where you need to pick your route carefully to avoid grounding your
canoe. The main industry in this part of the river is sand and gravel extraction from the bed of river and you will
need to take care when passing these dredgers. This section will be easy unless there are strong winds which can
build up big waves. As the river is getting wider the river is more vulnerable to wind.
g) Santarem - Vila Franca 45 km
Santarem is the highest point on the Tagus that I have found affected by the tide, however the tide will not
become significant for another 15km. Below Escaroupim, half way through this section, the state of the tide is likely
to be more significant than the flow of water down the river. You will want to paddle down on the tide and camp or
rest when the tide is coming in. This section of the river is particularly exposed to the winds off the Atlantic Ocean
and with wind against tide you could get big waves building up. Big dredgers come upriver as far as Escarroupim so
you will need to stay well clear of them.
Information:
I know of no sources of information on canoeing on the Tagus, but I have given sufficient detail above.
The Tagus flows from central Spain into Portugal and eventually reaches the Atlantic Ocean at Lisbon. This tour
covers about 160 km in Portugal. Most of the route is through remote countryside. There are only two dams early on
the route then the river is free flowing and becomes tidal as you near Vila Franca.
Start: Vila Velha de Rodao: From Castelo Branco follow the E802 SW for 15 km, then follow the N18 S to Vila
Velha de Rodao. There is a car park beside the river with a jetty, from which canoes can be launched, which is used
by fishing boats and the local rowing club.
Finish: Vila Franca de Xira: Vila Franca de Xira is about is about 30 km upstream from Lisbon. Below Vila
Franca the Tegus forms a big tidal estuary and there is much industry along the northern bank of the river as well
as much shipping so it is sensible to end the tour here. There are jetties and slipways where the canoe can be taken
out of the water.
Transport: There is a railway running from Vila Franca to Vila Rodao. There are several trains each day. For
those without two vehicles there are two options for canoe recovery.
1) Leave your vehicle at Vila Velha. When you reach Vila Franca there is a boatyard which may look after your
canoe while you return by train to pick up your car.
2) Leave your canoes at Vila Velha drive to Vila Franca. You should be able to find somewhere to leave your car
east of the station. Return to Vila Velha by train to begin your journey
Time required: The distance is about 160 km. How long it takes will depend on the wind, the amount of water
flowing down the river and the timing of the discharges from the Fratel and Belver Dams. I have canoed this river
several times and taken between 7 and 12 days to complete the route.
Accomodation: There are plenty of places for wilderness camping along the route once you are below the Fratel
Dam. You pass a number of towns where you will be able to find an hotel or be able to resupply.
Portages: There are two portages round dams. A trolley would make these portages easier.
Difficulty: At the Fratel and Belver Dams there are major hydro-electric Power Stations. They seem to operate
for periods of several hours and then the water flow is turned off. When the flow is turned on the water can rise by
at least 3 metres below the dams and there will be rapids which are only for the very experienced whitewater canoist.
You should wait until there is little flow from the dams before launching canoes into the water below the dam.
Sometimes the Power Stations operate at night!! The water level can raise up to 3 metres so you must not camp on
sandbanks or islands in the river. Make sure you are well above any high-water level when the flood water flows
from the dams. As you get further from the dams the flow levels out and the fluctuations in water level decrease. As
Vila Franca is approached the river becomes tidal. You are paddling into the prevailing wind and the wind. If there is
a strong wind, paddling can be difficult and slow and you can get big waves building up in some sections. In these
conditions it can make to sense to paddle early in the morning as the wind often builds up in the afternoon.
The Route:
a) Vila Velha de Rodao - Baragem de Fratel 16km
This section is a linear reservoir. There is little problem unless you are heading into a strong headwind. You are
far enough below the Cedilo Dam that the water is unlikely to vary by more than about 1m in a short interval. The
banks are steep and there are very few camping possibilities on this section. The best possibility is on the south
bank after about 7 km.
b) Portage of the Baragem de Fratel
Land the canoe at the slipway on the left before the dam. You then need to portage up a steep ramp to the dam
and cross the dam to a parking area on the north side of the dam. From here a small path leads down to the river.
The lower section of this path has deteriorated badly and you will have to carry the canoe rather than use your
trolley.
The first few hundred metres below the dam will be dangerous if there is substantial water being discharged from
the dam. When I have canoed this section I have waited for the water levels to drop before launching my canoe.
c) Baragem de Fratel - Baragem de Belver 20km
This is an easy section unless you launched when water was flowing from the dam. Assuming you camp
somewhere en route, make sure you are high enough above the river to cope with any discharge from the dam. That
means at least 3m above the river level
d) Portage of Baragem de Belver
When you reach the dam you should paddle under a bridge to the right of the dam and land at the slipway at a
small beach resort. The portage can be done by trolley. Head up the road past a commercial campsite and then turn
left and then right down a track between old shacks down to the river.
e) Baragem de Belver - Abrantes 18km
It may appear that you can launch into the river when it is high and fast-flowing, but don‘t. Just around the
corner the rapids start and they are dangerous when the river is in flood. Wait until water is no longer being
discharged from the dam. You could paddle a few hundred yards and camp on the left above the start of the rapids.
There a number of rapids between Belver and Abrantes. When the water level is low there are no problems. Just
after the nuclear power station visible high above the left bank you will come across a weir. This should be inspected
before you make any attempt to shoot it. Depending on the water levels, I have portaged it, shot it on the left or on
the right. Portaging is the sensible option, but if you are going to shoot the weir I would think it will probably be
easier on the right.
f) Abrantes - Santarem 60 km
There are no serious rapids below Abrantes. The river flows freely and you should be able to paddle at any water
levels. When the flow is low you will find places where you need to pick your route carefully to avoid grounding your
canoe. The main industry in this part of the river is sand and gravel extraction from the bed of river and you will
need to take care when passing these dredgers. This section will be easy unless there are strong winds which can
build up big waves. As the river is getting wider the river is more vulnerable to wind.
g) Santarem - Vila Franca 45 km
Santarem is the highest point on the Tagus that I have found affected by the tide, however the tide will not
become significant for another 15km. Below Escaroupim, half way through this section, the state of the tide is likely
to be more significant than the flow of water down the river. You will want to paddle down on the tide and camp or
rest when the tide is coming in. This section of the river is particularly exposed to the winds off the Atlantic Ocean
and with wind against tide you could get big waves building up. Big dredgers come upriver as far as Escarroupim so
you will need to stay well clear of them.
Information:
I know of no sources of information on canoeing on the Tagus, but I have given sufficient detail above.
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