Outdoor Adventures with Ancient Brit
Pyrenees GR11 2003 - Day 5 : August 13th
Wednesday 13th August
A strong breeze got up overnight, but the temperature only dropped to 21ºC. Martin
and Karen passed through as I was packing up camp, having made an early start from
the pass. After climbing up to 1300m, I was caught up by Ińaki and Alai, together with
another Basque, Asier, who had now joined them. There was no waymarking so I guided
them on steep descent over grassy hillside. Although they were quicker than me uphill,
I was able to get down quicker with the help of my walking poles. They didn’t follow me
when I fought my through a band of thick woodland and I lost touch with them.
Eventually I reached Casa Pablo, a refuge/bar at the roadhead in the valley. Martin and
Karen were already in the bar, drinking from very small bottles of beer. The stream
was dry and the Refuge was short of water (despite road access!) and the owner would
only let me have 2 litres. I bought a small, very expensive lemonade at the bar. They
didn’t seem to be equipped to cater for hikers. Eventually the Basques arrived, having
got lost again.
I started up the 300m climb to the Collado de Arbilleta. Again there was no
waymarking and it was hot in the full glare of the sun. This time the Basques stayed
with me until the ridge, where we were surprised to find a trough with running water. I
stopped for a bath and to rehydrate, while the Basques carried on to the town of
Burguete. The Germans passed before I headed off for the town. When I got there I
found that the shops didn’t open after the siesta until 5pm. I spent a couple of hours
drinking beer and eating ice-creams with Ińaki, Alai and Asier. When the store opened
I bought 3 litres of fruit juice and 2 cans of beer to add to the 2 litres of water I was
carrying and set off for Roncesvalles. The Monastery at Roncevalles was one of the
main starting points on the pilgrim route, Camino de Santiago, links the religious sites
of the Pyrenees to Compostella de Santiago in Galicia in NW Spain. (Santiago = St.
James). The Camino de Santiago follows the GR65 and is a well-engineered and signed
footpath. I followed this path to Roncevalles and returned to the GR 11 for the climb up
to Puerto de Ibaneta, where there is a chapel and a monument to Roland, before
following the road up towards the 1445m Collado de Lepoeder. I found a place to camp
at 1295m below the pass.
It was clouding over now and a brisk northerly breeze had blown up. I had lost my
compass today so I hoped there wouldn’t be any difficult navigation before I found
some more. A shepherd was herding sheep on the steep slopes just below my tent. By
10pm the wind had reversed and was blowing from the south. I was still having
problems sleeping in the heat and resorted to reading for an hour at midnight.
A strong breeze got up overnight, but the temperature only dropped to 21ºC. Martin
and Karen passed through as I was packing up camp, having made an early start from
the pass. After climbing up to 1300m, I was caught up by Ińaki and Alai, together with
another Basque, Asier, who had now joined them. There was no waymarking so I guided
them on steep descent over grassy hillside. Although they were quicker than me uphill,
I was able to get down quicker with the help of my walking poles. They didn’t follow me
when I fought my through a band of thick woodland and I lost touch with them.
Eventually I reached Casa Pablo, a refuge/bar at the roadhead in the valley. Martin and
Karen were already in the bar, drinking from very small bottles of beer. The stream
was dry and the Refuge was short of water (despite road access!) and the owner would
only let me have 2 litres. I bought a small, very expensive lemonade at the bar. They
didn’t seem to be equipped to cater for hikers. Eventually the Basques arrived, having
got lost again.
I started up the 300m climb to the Collado de Arbilleta. Again there was no
waymarking and it was hot in the full glare of the sun. This time the Basques stayed
with me until the ridge, where we were surprised to find a trough with running water. I
stopped for a bath and to rehydrate, while the Basques carried on to the town of
Burguete. The Germans passed before I headed off for the town. When I got there I
found that the shops didn’t open after the siesta until 5pm. I spent a couple of hours
drinking beer and eating ice-creams with Ińaki, Alai and Asier. When the store opened
I bought 3 litres of fruit juice and 2 cans of beer to add to the 2 litres of water I was
carrying and set off for Roncesvalles. The Monastery at Roncevalles was one of the
main starting points on the pilgrim route, Camino de Santiago, links the religious sites
of the Pyrenees to Compostella de Santiago in Galicia in NW Spain. (Santiago = St.
James). The Camino de Santiago follows the GR65 and is a well-engineered and signed
footpath. I followed this path to Roncevalles and returned to the GR 11 for the climb up
to Puerto de Ibaneta, where there is a chapel and a monument to Roland, before
following the road up towards the 1445m Collado de Lepoeder. I found a place to camp
at 1295m below the pass.
It was clouding over now and a brisk northerly breeze had blown up. I had lost my
compass today so I hoped there wouldn’t be any difficult navigation before I found
some more. A shepherd was herding sheep on the steep slopes just below my tent. By
10pm the wind had reversed and was blowing from the south. I was still having
problems sleeping in the heat and resorted to reading for an hour at midnight.
Inaki and Asier with
Adi in background
Adi in background
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