Outdoor Adventures with Ancient Brit
Pyrenees GR11 2003 - Day 11: August 19th
Tuesday 19th August
It was clear in the morning. I climbed over a 1915m pass and down to the Ibon d’
Estanes. There was no natural outlet to the lake, only a concrete water extraction point
for the hydro-electric power station down in the valley. I had a swim in the lake and eat
my second breakfast. I didn’t look carefully at the map or guide for the descent to
Candanchu. There was a well-trod and waymarked path, which I followed. When I
realised that all the walkers climbing the path were talking French, rather than Spanish,
I looked at the map and realised I was heading down into the wrong valley in France. I
had missed the little used turn-off of the GR11. I decided it would be easier to continue
down to Sansanet and then make the 300m climb up the road and over the Col du
Somport, before dropping down to Candanchu. The Col du Somport was another of the
main starting points on the Camino de Santiago and I followed the well engineered
footpath down to the ski resort of Candanchu.
There was a coach parked at the spot where I had left my third supply bag. This
coach was the back-up for a group of about 40 young Belgium pilgrims, who were walking
part of the Camino de Santiago. I scrounged some melon off them (and some to carry
with me). Melon was the easiest thing to eat in the high temperatures. After sorting out
my supply bag, I then headed down to Canal Roya with a group of the Belgiums. At Cana
Roya the GR11 split into two routes, one continuing to follow the Camino de Santiago
and the higher, more interesting route up the Canal Roya valley. Fortunately I was alert
this time, because at the point that the GR11 split, there was a clear sign indicating the
route of the Camino de Santiago and the alternative route for the GR11, but the sign for
my route was missing. I turned up the pista up the Canal Roya, a deep wooded V-shaped
valley. I stopped early and camped when I reached the pastures just below the Refugio de
Lacuas. This refuge was just a stone hut, and since it had been left open, sheep had
sheltered in it. I had a bath in a waterhole in the stream. There were a lot of flies around
this camp, which is inevitable when camping in cow country. A lot of walkers were
walking down the valley, descending from the popular Ibons d’Anayet (lakes).
The weather had been good today and I was rather surprised when a thunderstorm
hit at midnight.
It was clear in the morning. I climbed over a 1915m pass and down to the Ibon d’
Estanes. There was no natural outlet to the lake, only a concrete water extraction point
for the hydro-electric power station down in the valley. I had a swim in the lake and eat
my second breakfast. I didn’t look carefully at the map or guide for the descent to
Candanchu. There was a well-trod and waymarked path, which I followed. When I
realised that all the walkers climbing the path were talking French, rather than Spanish,
I looked at the map and realised I was heading down into the wrong valley in France. I
had missed the little used turn-off of the GR11. I decided it would be easier to continue
down to Sansanet and then make the 300m climb up the road and over the Col du
Somport, before dropping down to Candanchu. The Col du Somport was another of the
main starting points on the Camino de Santiago and I followed the well engineered
footpath down to the ski resort of Candanchu.
There was a coach parked at the spot where I had left my third supply bag. This
coach was the back-up for a group of about 40 young Belgium pilgrims, who were walking
part of the Camino de Santiago. I scrounged some melon off them (and some to carry
with me). Melon was the easiest thing to eat in the high temperatures. After sorting out
my supply bag, I then headed down to Canal Roya with a group of the Belgiums. At Cana
Roya the GR11 split into two routes, one continuing to follow the Camino de Santiago
and the higher, more interesting route up the Canal Roya valley. Fortunately I was alert
this time, because at the point that the GR11 split, there was a clear sign indicating the
route of the Camino de Santiago and the alternative route for the GR11, but the sign for
my route was missing. I turned up the pista up the Canal Roya, a deep wooded V-shaped
valley. I stopped early and camped when I reached the pastures just below the Refugio de
Lacuas. This refuge was just a stone hut, and since it had been left open, sheep had
sheltered in it. I had a bath in a waterhole in the stream. There were a lot of flies around
this camp, which is inevitable when camping in cow country. A lot of walkers were
walking down the valley, descending from the popular Ibons d’Anayet (lakes).
The weather had been good today and I was rather surprised when a thunderstorm
hit at midnight.
Sheep below
Sierra Bernera
Sierra Bernera
Belgium pilgrims on
Camino de Santiago
Camino de Santiago
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