Outdoor Adventures with Ancient Brit
Pyrenees GR11 2003 - Day 30 : September 7th
Sunday 7th September
There was rain overnight and I awoke to low cloud and mist, with thunder in the
distance. I am glad I got over the col last night, as it might have been dangerous in
these conditions. It started raining as I left and rained steadily all morning. I soon
passed the unmanned Refugio Engorgs, where several groups were still clearing up after
their breakfast. The path from the Refuge was unclear and impossible to follow. I was
contouring round the steep slopes of Puig Pedros on intermittent animal tracks when I
was joined by 3 Spaniards. They had neither map nor compass and, having also lost the
path, could have been in serious difficulties. By now we were in thick mist and I guided
them round Puig Pedros and across some undulating terrain before finding a descent
route to the Refugio de Malniu. This was a large manned hut at the head of a pista. The
Spaniards, none of whom spoke English or French, had left their car at the Refuge and
were on a weekend backpacking trip. They weren’t really prepared for the weather we
were getting. I stopped at the Refuge for bacon and eggs before setting out in the
continuing rain. Again the navigation was interesting! Even in the mist I could tell that
the path was in a different place than shown on my map! The paths were poorly marked
over broad ridges with woods and large grassy areas. Eventually I found my way down,
out of the cloud, to the small villages of Guils de Cerdanya and Saneja. Somehow,
despite conflicting and erroneous advice from the locals, I found my way into France,
across fields (Paths were shown on my map, but were not in evidence on the ground) to
Latour de Carol where I had left my van. I drove up into the mountains for the night.
There was rain overnight and I awoke to low cloud and mist, with thunder in the
distance. I am glad I got over the col last night, as it might have been dangerous in
these conditions. It started raining as I left and rained steadily all morning. I soon
passed the unmanned Refugio Engorgs, where several groups were still clearing up after
their breakfast. The path from the Refuge was unclear and impossible to follow. I was
contouring round the steep slopes of Puig Pedros on intermittent animal tracks when I
was joined by 3 Spaniards. They had neither map nor compass and, having also lost the
path, could have been in serious difficulties. By now we were in thick mist and I guided
them round Puig Pedros and across some undulating terrain before finding a descent
route to the Refugio de Malniu. This was a large manned hut at the head of a pista. The
Spaniards, none of whom spoke English or French, had left their car at the Refuge and
were on a weekend backpacking trip. They weren’t really prepared for the weather we
were getting. I stopped at the Refuge for bacon and eggs before setting out in the
continuing rain. Again the navigation was interesting! Even in the mist I could tell that
the path was in a different place than shown on my map! The paths were poorly marked
over broad ridges with woods and large grassy areas. Eventually I found my way down,
out of the cloud, to the small villages of Guils de Cerdanya and Saneja. Somehow,
despite conflicting and erroneous advice from the locals, I found my way into France,
across fields (Paths were shown on my map, but were not in evidence on the ground) to
Latour de Carol where I had left my van. I drove up into the mountains for the night.
Ridge above Guils
de Cerdanya
de Cerdanya
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