Outdoor Adventures with Ancient Brit
PCT 2002 - June 28th
Day 73: Friday 28th June Benwood Meadow Creek – Gilmore Lake
I passed through the Echo Summit Sno-area early in the morning. This was a centre
for cross-country skiing and for sno-mobiles in the winter. In summer the centre was
taken over by the California Conservation Corps; an organisation, which takes on
youngsters, many with problems, and offers them military fitness training and discipline,
combined with the chance to do conservation work, and a first step on the employment
ladder. At the road crossing I met “D-low”, another AT veteran from New York, who had
been walking with “Mags” but had lost touch with him.
I had intended to leave a supply bag at the Echo Lake Post Office/store, but they had
not been willing to look after the bag. This store had got a reputation for not being hiker
friendly and this cost them a lot of custom. I left my supply bag at a nearby holiday
home. The owners were out but they had left my bag out for me. I discovered I had failed
to put a gas cylinder in my supply bag so I would have to ration hot drinks over the next
4 days.
I went to Echo Lake Post Office to send films and my journal home. I decided to send
my water filter home as well as I didn’t seem to be making much use of it. I would boil
any dodgy water in the future.
I caught up with Simon and Liz at last. They had left Kennedy Meadows a few hours
ahead of me and had been on their tail ever since. Originally from Newcastle, Simon was
a reporter for BBC Scotland News and also a freelance travel writer who was sending a
monthly article on his thru-hike to TGO (The Great Outdoors) magazine. They had flown
into Denver on 20th March, but did not leave Campo until April 17th, and were a little
concerned about whether they would finish before their 6-month visa expired.
I also met Brian Robinson, “Flying Brian”, at Echo Lake. He had made history in
2001 by being the first person to complete the “Triple Crown” of the Appalachian Trail,
Pacific Crest Trail and Continental Divide Trail in one year; a total distance of almost
8000 miles. He had a lot of support so that he could slackpack much of the way, but it
was a huge mental and physical challenge, particularly as none of these trails are
designed to be walkable in winter conditions. He had had to walk 25 miles/day in
snowshoes during the winter, often walking in the dark on the short winter days. He was
down for a 100-mile mountain race over the weekend and was offering his services as a
“Trail Angel” to thru-hikers on the Friday. He left with Simon and Liz for Lake Tahoe.
We were about to enter the granite mountains of Desolation Wilderness, which was
so popular that the authorities were considering introducing a permit system for day-
hikers, in addition to the controls already in force for backpackers. After a couple of
months seeing very few hikers, the place seemed to be teeming with people. It had
clouded over early in the morning, but I think it was just cloud coming up from Lake
Tahoe, which was big enough to affect the local weather. It had cleared by the time I left
Echo Lake but a cooling wind was keeping walking conditions good. Again my pack was
heavy, as it was whenever I picked up a supply bag.
I had a late lunch by Lake Aloha where I had a bath rather than a swim because the
water was very cold. At first sight it looked as if it was a natural lake, but it is actually a
reservoir as could be seen by the fact it still contained “snags” and a lot of fallen timber
around the shoreline. It had been built to provide water for Sacramento. Glaciers had
scoured out the lake basin, removed the pre-existing topsoil and loose rock, which
explained the lack of trees around the lake.
I camped at Gilmore Lake with Tim and Kelly, from Sacramento. After a swim I had
dinner with them, using their stove to conserve my fuel supplies. This was their first
night on a 9-day backpacking trip. They were walking with their dog that was carrying its
own pack. Tim suggested that, as the dog ate its own supplies up, they would be able to
put some of their supplies in its pack! They supplemented my supplies with tortilla and
chocolate. I learnt from them that England and the USA had just been beaten in the
quarterfinals of the Football World Cup by eventual finalists, Brazil and Germany. I
realised how little news I had got since leaving home.
Day 73: 16.5 miles 7.25 hours Camp: Gilmore Lake
I passed through the Echo Summit Sno-area early in the morning. This was a centre
for cross-country skiing and for sno-mobiles in the winter. In summer the centre was
taken over by the California Conservation Corps; an organisation, which takes on
youngsters, many with problems, and offers them military fitness training and discipline,
combined with the chance to do conservation work, and a first step on the employment
ladder. At the road crossing I met “D-low”, another AT veteran from New York, who had
been walking with “Mags” but had lost touch with him.
I had intended to leave a supply bag at the Echo Lake Post Office/store, but they had
not been willing to look after the bag. This store had got a reputation for not being hiker
friendly and this cost them a lot of custom. I left my supply bag at a nearby holiday
home. The owners were out but they had left my bag out for me. I discovered I had failed
to put a gas cylinder in my supply bag so I would have to ration hot drinks over the next
4 days.
I went to Echo Lake Post Office to send films and my journal home. I decided to send
my water filter home as well as I didn’t seem to be making much use of it. I would boil
any dodgy water in the future.
I caught up with Simon and Liz at last. They had left Kennedy Meadows a few hours
ahead of me and had been on their tail ever since. Originally from Newcastle, Simon was
a reporter for BBC Scotland News and also a freelance travel writer who was sending a
monthly article on his thru-hike to TGO (The Great Outdoors) magazine. They had flown
into Denver on 20th March, but did not leave Campo until April 17th, and were a little
concerned about whether they would finish before their 6-month visa expired.
I also met Brian Robinson, “Flying Brian”, at Echo Lake. He had made history in
2001 by being the first person to complete the “Triple Crown” of the Appalachian Trail,
Pacific Crest Trail and Continental Divide Trail in one year; a total distance of almost
8000 miles. He had a lot of support so that he could slackpack much of the way, but it
was a huge mental and physical challenge, particularly as none of these trails are
designed to be walkable in winter conditions. He had had to walk 25 miles/day in
snowshoes during the winter, often walking in the dark on the short winter days. He was
down for a 100-mile mountain race over the weekend and was offering his services as a
“Trail Angel” to thru-hikers on the Friday. He left with Simon and Liz for Lake Tahoe.
We were about to enter the granite mountains of Desolation Wilderness, which was
so popular that the authorities were considering introducing a permit system for day-
hikers, in addition to the controls already in force for backpackers. After a couple of
months seeing very few hikers, the place seemed to be teeming with people. It had
clouded over early in the morning, but I think it was just cloud coming up from Lake
Tahoe, which was big enough to affect the local weather. It had cleared by the time I left
Echo Lake but a cooling wind was keeping walking conditions good. Again my pack was
heavy, as it was whenever I picked up a supply bag.
I had a late lunch by Lake Aloha where I had a bath rather than a swim because the
water was very cold. At first sight it looked as if it was a natural lake, but it is actually a
reservoir as could be seen by the fact it still contained “snags” and a lot of fallen timber
around the shoreline. It had been built to provide water for Sacramento. Glaciers had
scoured out the lake basin, removed the pre-existing topsoil and loose rock, which
explained the lack of trees around the lake.
I camped at Gilmore Lake with Tim and Kelly, from Sacramento. After a swim I had
dinner with them, using their stove to conserve my fuel supplies. This was their first
night on a 9-day backpacking trip. They were walking with their dog that was carrying its
own pack. Tim suggested that, as the dog ate its own supplies up, they would be able to
put some of their supplies in its pack! They supplemented my supplies with tortilla and
chocolate. I learnt from them that England and the USA had just been beaten in the
quarterfinals of the Football World Cup by eventual finalists, Brazil and Germany. I
realised how little news I had got since leaving home.
Day 73: 16.5 miles 7.25 hours Camp: Gilmore Lake
D-low
Flying Brian,
Liz and Simon
Liz and Simon
Heather and
Suzie Lakes
Suzie Lakes
Lake Gilmore at sunset
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